I love my old Toyota Land Cruisers but 30+ years has caused rust in some really inconvenient places. I’m not a fan of those rust converter paints because (1) I doubt they actually stop the rust, and (2) you still have ugly bumpy surfaces. But it’s impossible to get a wire wheel or sandpaper into all the books & crannies of the engine accessory brackets, seat brackets, etc. and I don’t have access to a sandblaster. What’s a guy to do?? So I tried this with a lot of hope but not much faith that it’d work. Not only does it work, IT WORKS GREAT!!
The instructions say to leave parts submerged for a few hours. Personally, I soak parts in a big jug of water that’s heavy with Dawn detergent for a day or two first, shaking the jug whenever I think of it to knock loose caked-on grease and dirt, flaking paint, wasp nests, whatever. A toothbrush comes in useful here, too.
Once the part is reasonably clean and rinsed off, I drop it in as small a container as I can (to save Evapo-Rust) and pour in the Evapo-Rust until it’s fully submerged. Put a lid on it and leave it alone. It’s not instantaneous…learn some patience. Depending on how bad it was you’ll start seeing clean bare metal appear within 30 minutes to several hours, but don’t get too antsy. Slosh the container around when you think of it to get fresh fluid down into the recesses of the part. Lightly rusted parts will be clean in an hour or three. More heavy rust will take more time. I sometimes will fill an old cheese ball jug with nuts, bolts, screws, brake line fittings, washers, whatever isn’t nice enough to reuse on the trucks, and with rolling the jug every so often it can take two days before they’re all clean.
The more dirt, paint and rust that’s on the part the longer it’ll take. Also, whatever the reacting chemical is that removes the rust, it does get used up and stop working. For really, really heavy rust that turns the fluid muddy and gross after a couple days soaking, you may need to empty the old stuff, rinse the part and give it a second soak to finish the job.
The important thing is: IT WORKS!! Your parts come out bare metal even down in the holes where you could never clean otherwise. It will NOT remove paint that is well adhered, it does not magically replace metal that’s corroded away. But for getting steel parts clean of corrosion, it’s the bomb.
NOTE: it will dull or remove the nice cad or zinc finish on parts, so don’t put anything in that you don’t want to strip. It should be obvious not to put electrical parts into liquids. So don’t.
The instructions suggest rinsing parts in water and then dipping into clean Evapo-Rust to preserve them. That does work, and you do need to do something pretty quickly after stripping the parts because you now have bare steel and humid air touching each other. For things I’m not using immediately I dunk them in clean Evapo-Rust and set them out to dry. They dry just a little sticky but won’t rust for a while. Months, if they’re stored indoors. Things I want to paint I rinse in very hot water, dry as best I can and lay the parts out to air dry in an air-conditioned area (for lower humidity). Paint or coat soon because surface rust loves bare metal.